What kind of Bow.....
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shedhunter
- Spike
- Posts: 149
- Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 10:27 am
- Location: Cedar City, UT
What kind of Bow.....
Hey Ya'll:
I was just wondering what kind of bow do you all shoot. I havent been around too long in the world of archery and every year learn tons about bows and all their many components. Obviously there is no right or wrong to the following question, but what is the best bow out there and why? Also, tree stands out west are becoming more and more popular, why do you think that this is, and do you use one?
I was just wondering what kind of bow do you all shoot. I havent been around too long in the world of archery and every year learn tons about bows and all their many components. Obviously there is no right or wrong to the following question, but what is the best bow out there and why? Also, tree stands out west are becoming more and more popular, why do you think that this is, and do you use one?
~shedhunter~
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shedhunter
- Spike
- Posts: 149
- Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 10:27 am
- Location: Cedar City, UT
Answer my own questions.
To answer my own questions, I use a Mathews Black Max II. This bow is the fastest bow on the market (or so advertized). It has a very short brace height, making the bow very unforgiving. The speed always helps compensate a bit, but not nearly enough for a novice bow hunter. It got the job done last year though!
The best bow, well since I have only shot Mathews, a PSE, and one Hoyt, I am still sticking with the Mathews. They have a new bow out this year called the Outback. I guess it is suposed to be the best in their line up this year. It is a real short bow with a larger brace height, and it is smooth. It comes standard with Mathews Vibration Dampener system in the riser, string supressors, weighted cam, Mathews' pully cable gaurd thing :oops: , and it is camo. From working at a sporting goods store, it sounds like this is the bow they are pushing for Mathews.
Oh speaking of new stuff, the Hoyt rep stopped by the other day and the bow guy wasn't in. He mentioned a take down compound that you can take apart and put in your pack. I saw the little "bundle" it stores in, and it is might impressive. Myself being a sceptic, I think I'll wait to see how it does durring these first couple of "proving" years before I buy one! but watch for the new take down bow from Hoyt!
Treestands. I have used one and they seem to be pretty effective. Over repeated exposure and after many times of being busted in the stand, the deer will automatically look up in the stand though. I now advoid permenent stands and bought be a fancy "back east" type. Ya know the slef climbers? This sucks for So. Utah because unless you hunt the Aspens or get lucky enough to find a oak big enough to climb, this stand is useless. I will have to get one of the non-climbers someday. I perfer spot and stalk on big game out west though, especially when bow hunting! Natural ground blinds also work better for me than stands, but stands still rate No. 3 for me!
Lookin' forward to some FEEDBACK!
The best bow, well since I have only shot Mathews, a PSE, and one Hoyt, I am still sticking with the Mathews. They have a new bow out this year called the Outback. I guess it is suposed to be the best in their line up this year. It is a real short bow with a larger brace height, and it is smooth. It comes standard with Mathews Vibration Dampener system in the riser, string supressors, weighted cam, Mathews' pully cable gaurd thing :oops: , and it is camo. From working at a sporting goods store, it sounds like this is the bow they are pushing for Mathews.
Oh speaking of new stuff, the Hoyt rep stopped by the other day and the bow guy wasn't in. He mentioned a take down compound that you can take apart and put in your pack. I saw the little "bundle" it stores in, and it is might impressive. Myself being a sceptic, I think I'll wait to see how it does durring these first couple of "proving" years before I buy one! but watch for the new take down bow from Hoyt!
Treestands. I have used one and they seem to be pretty effective. Over repeated exposure and after many times of being busted in the stand, the deer will automatically look up in the stand though. I now advoid permenent stands and bought be a fancy "back east" type. Ya know the slef climbers? This sucks for So. Utah because unless you hunt the Aspens or get lucky enough to find a oak big enough to climb, this stand is useless. I will have to get one of the non-climbers someday. I perfer spot and stalk on big game out west though, especially when bow hunting! Natural ground blinds also work better for me than stands, but stands still rate No. 3 for me!
Lookin' forward to some FEEDBACK!
~shedhunter~
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MuleyMadness
- Site Admin
- Posts: 9997
- Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2002 9:34 pm
- Location: St. George, UT
- Contact:
Okay,
Here is my feedback, which is minimal experience as far as archery goes. I just recently got into it myself and have yet to take a buck with a bow. Maybe this year. :D
I bought a Martin bow. The Martin Tracer Magnum to be exact. Was supposed to be a good, fast, bow for a beginner. Plus I'm short with a small draw length. Has worked great for me so far and I'm completely happy with it.
As far as the stands, can be tough for mule deer in my opinion. However I have seen them work. Usually placed in a tree after patterning a buck. Only temporarily though. I placed a stand in a tree a few years ago and have some fun success getting close to deer my 1st time in it. Then once the deer "pegged" me they seemed to avoid the area. I tried to exit after dark to avoid this problem, but I think the smell got to them. They were coming off a hill and could see me at eye level half way down the hill. So during the hunt, not much success. More for fun during summer scouting.
We need BOHNTR's advice on all this. He is the "GURU" on this topic.
Here is my feedback, which is minimal experience as far as archery goes. I just recently got into it myself and have yet to take a buck with a bow. Maybe this year. :D
I bought a Martin bow. The Martin Tracer Magnum to be exact. Was supposed to be a good, fast, bow for a beginner. Plus I'm short with a small draw length. Has worked great for me so far and I'm completely happy with it.
As far as the stands, can be tough for mule deer in my opinion. However I have seen them work. Usually placed in a tree after patterning a buck. Only temporarily though. I placed a stand in a tree a few years ago and have some fun success getting close to deer my 1st time in it. Then once the deer "pegged" me they seemed to avoid the area. I tried to exit after dark to avoid this problem, but I think the smell got to them. They were coming off a hill and could see me at eye level half way down the hill. So during the hunt, not much success. More for fun during summer scouting.
We need BOHNTR's advice on all this. He is the "GURU" on this topic.
Well, if the owner has classified me as a guru I better step up to the plate. :D I've been bowhunting for 25 years or so now (but I'm not as old as AKW270) and I guess I've been lucky a few times over the years with some decent critters.
I have quite a few bows I shoot but my #1 hunting bow is still my Hoyt Aspen. It's a machined aluminum deflex riser with carbon split limbs, giving it an axle to axle lenght of 40 1/2" with an 8 1/4" brace height. It's fairly fast due to the carbon limbs but most of all.....it's whisper quiet and VERY forgiving. In my opinion these are the most desirable qualities in a hunting bow.
All major manufacturers make quality bows now-a-days. I tune a lot of bows for folks at my hunting partner's pro-shop and I'd have to say a shorter bow with a relatively low brace height is a more difficult bow to shoot for the average person. With the introduction of laser rangefinders, speed is really not a factor anymore.
Treestands are definatley on the increase in the western states. I own a few portables but quite honestly I don't use them much. I really prefer spot and stalk and still hunting for muleys. However, there are guys/gals that have successfully used them by placing them in funnel areas near agricultural fields, or saddles where mule deer tend to cross. They can also be used near water sources, however competition is sometimes fierce for those spots. :D
My back-up bow is a Hoyt Ultra-Tec which shoots like a dream too. I have a few other Hoyts and a ton of custom built tradtional recurves/longbows. I hunt with those at times too, depending on what I'm hunting and if the "traditional bug" has hit me again. :lol:
BOHNTR )))------------------>
I have quite a few bows I shoot but my #1 hunting bow is still my Hoyt Aspen. It's a machined aluminum deflex riser with carbon split limbs, giving it an axle to axle lenght of 40 1/2" with an 8 1/4" brace height. It's fairly fast due to the carbon limbs but most of all.....it's whisper quiet and VERY forgiving. In my opinion these are the most desirable qualities in a hunting bow.
All major manufacturers make quality bows now-a-days. I tune a lot of bows for folks at my hunting partner's pro-shop and I'd have to say a shorter bow with a relatively low brace height is a more difficult bow to shoot for the average person. With the introduction of laser rangefinders, speed is really not a factor anymore.
Treestands are definatley on the increase in the western states. I own a few portables but quite honestly I don't use them much. I really prefer spot and stalk and still hunting for muleys. However, there are guys/gals that have successfully used them by placing them in funnel areas near agricultural fields, or saddles where mule deer tend to cross. They can also be used near water sources, however competition is sometimes fierce for those spots. :D
My back-up bow is a Hoyt Ultra-Tec which shoots like a dream too. I have a few other Hoyts and a ton of custom built tradtional recurves/longbows. I hunt with those at times too, depending on what I'm hunting and if the "traditional bug" has hit me again. :lol:
BOHNTR )))------------------>
BOHNTR....Your too dang modest! We've seen those "nice critters" posted on this site and I'll tell ya this much, you've out hunted the majority of us RIFLE hunters! And, although I absolutely hate to admit this (if for no other reason than I'm a stubborn SOB) I've recently taken up a bow to see if there is any chance I can get good enough to hunt with one.
Thus far I've managed to put holes in every square inch of my property...with the exception of the dang target! Not to mention the raspberries on my forarm....and my wife's constant complaining that I'm putting holes in the fences (errant shots). I'll get the hang of this one of these days though.....I may be 50 years old by that time....but I'll get it!
Thus far I've managed to put holes in every square inch of my property...with the exception of the dang target! Not to mention the raspberries on my forarm....and my wife's constant complaining that I'm putting holes in the fences (errant shots). I'll get the hang of this one of these days though.....I may be 50 years old by that time....but I'll get it!
Im just a young'n here, but ive hunted with a bow for 2 years, have only done 1 muley hunt with my bow, and not successful, but it was to hot and we couldnt even find em. I have taken a fairly large black bear though my first year bow hunting. I bowhunt black bear every spring, lots of fun tryin to sneak up on critters n get close n personal to em, Even if its not the bear/deer you decide to shoot. Im bad with judging distances even though i was able to shoot my bear at about 25 yards, but me n my dad just got a bushnell laser range finder, so going to be putting it to use as early as this weekend. I have a couple questions about archery, just wondering how often ya'll shoot to keep in good shape, and what kinda pull you got on your bow, cus im around 60 i think but after 4-5 shots my arms hooped, and can't get a group anymore, so should i be backin it down a touch till i get stronger, or does it matter cus i only need t take one or two shots in a hunting situation anyways. Also right now i'm just shooting with a finger tab, would a mechanical release improve my accuracy and groups, cus im debating weather to get one and if its worth it cus i only bow hunt for a month or so a year if that.
"Hunting is not something you read in books or watch on tv, hunting is a feeling, an art, and a time honored tradition"
Tracker J:
Those are some good questions. I used to shoot heavy weight bows (80 lbs) years ago when I got caught up in the "speed" craze like other archers. However, the last few seasons with the influx of quality carbon arrows, I've been shooting only about 63 lbs with the same speed. I found I'm much more accurate holding the lower weight and the bow is A LOT quieter.
I usually shoot about 50 arrows a day. This helps me keep my bow muscles in shape and my form in tune all year round. If you're unable to correctly shoot your bow after 3-4 shots, I would consider backing the weight down until you build those muscles up. It's kind of like baseball, the more you shoot (or throw) the stronger you'll become. Just begin at a comfortable weight so you do not develop bad shooting habits.
I shoot fingers AND release for different competitions and/or hunts. So to answer you directly, you WILL be more consistent with a release. It just may take you a while to get used to one if you've never used it. I would suggest a trigger type design if you decide to venture that way.
The best advice I have is have fun shooting bows and arrows. Hope the info helps and good luck.
BOHNTR )))------------------->
Those are some good questions. I used to shoot heavy weight bows (80 lbs) years ago when I got caught up in the "speed" craze like other archers. However, the last few seasons with the influx of quality carbon arrows, I've been shooting only about 63 lbs with the same speed. I found I'm much more accurate holding the lower weight and the bow is A LOT quieter.
I usually shoot about 50 arrows a day. This helps me keep my bow muscles in shape and my form in tune all year round. If you're unable to correctly shoot your bow after 3-4 shots, I would consider backing the weight down until you build those muscles up. It's kind of like baseball, the more you shoot (or throw) the stronger you'll become. Just begin at a comfortable weight so you do not develop bad shooting habits.
I shoot fingers AND release for different competitions and/or hunts. So to answer you directly, you WILL be more consistent with a release. It just may take you a while to get used to one if you've never used it. I would suggest a trigger type design if you decide to venture that way.
The best advice I have is have fun shooting bows and arrows. Hope the info helps and good luck.
BOHNTR )))------------------->
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Anonymous
BOHNTR,
Thanks alot, I'll back my bow down a bit and start shootin a little more arrows each day, get my shoulder tuned up and then maybe start steppin up the weight more again. As for the finger tab, looks like i might use it for the bear season this spring as i dont want to change up my set-up right now and not have time to get used to it. After spring season is over though, i'll probably make the switch, so that i have a summer to get used to it before opening of deer season.
Thanks alot, I'll back my bow down a bit and start shootin a little more arrows each day, get my shoulder tuned up and then maybe start steppin up the weight more again. As for the finger tab, looks like i might use it for the bear season this spring as i dont want to change up my set-up right now and not have time to get used to it. After spring season is over though, i'll probably make the switch, so that i have a summer to get used to it before opening of deer season.